- Sunday, 23 June: I caught a ride to IAD with SuperShuttle at about 0700 for an 1100 Ethiopian Airlines flight to Adis Abbaba, connecting to Kilimanjaro. The driver was from Cameroon, so we talked about Africa during the trip to the airport, and he assured me that this would be “the best trip of your life.” I had splurged on an business class ticket, because of the long flight times there and back, so I got to zip through the luggage check, and to hang out in the the airline’s fancy lounge while waiting for my flight (comfortable chairs, free breakfast, etc.). The Ethiopian Airlines business class seats (which turned into beds) and service (huge meals every time I looked up) were very nice, and the long trip (about 19 hours) went quickly. I watched the movie Vice en route.
- Monday, 24 June: I arrived in Adis about 0715, and forgetting about my temporarily exalted status and the existence of a business class lounge, hung out in the terminal for a few hours, waiting for the flight to KJO. After a quick visa procedure at the Kilimanjaro airport, I met the driver I had scheduled, who took me to the Kilimanjaro Wonders Hotel in Moshi. The driver was a nice guy, and we chatted during the hour-long drive to Moshi. The hotel (recommended by REI) was apparently considered a high-end establishment, but the wing I was in was being renovated, and was a little funky (no lights in the hallway at night, no towels in the room on arrival, etc.). The staff was very nice though, and the food was good. A loud night club nearby woke me up around 2200 and I asked the desk staff if I could move. They said that no other rooms were available.
- Tuesday, 25 June: One of the hotel employees rang my room around 0930 to ask if I wanted to come for breakfast (I was on the verge of sleeping through the cutoff). After breakfast I headed up to my room to finish packing, and after checking out I hung out by the pool for a few hours, waiting for my ride to the REI Day 1 accommodations. At the pool, I met Jan and David Heaton, who would be two of my four traveling companions for the next couple of weeks. They were from San Francisco, David had been a pickleball champion and was a carpenter and landord, and Jan was a high school science teacher (on the verge of retirement). Charles (our guide for the next few days) and an REI driver showed up on time at 1300, and drove us to the Halisi Kilimanjaro. Charles described the ride to the camp as an “African Massage” (the first time we’d hear that repeated description over the next couple of weeks). Prince, the camp’s manager, and Misha, one of the employees at the camp, met us when we arrived. We received happy smiles, hot towels, and fresh juice at the camp, as we would at every stop during the trip. It was a somewhat cool and rainy day (no views of Kilimanjaro). Misha brought homemade potato chips and a cold Kilimanjaro beer to my room. Our group convened around 1900 for a great dinner. Rounding out our group of travelers were Jack and Joan Zivic, from Denver, Colorado. Both were retired and were very active in outdoor sports in Colorado. After dinner, I retired to my room for some reading (The Fermata, by Nicholson Baker) and sleep.
- Wednesday, 26 June: I awoke around 0700 to to another cool, rainy day. After breakfast we met with John Manyama (the on-ground REI coordinator), Charles Mushi (our guide until we left for Serengeti National Park), and Jackson (our assistant guide), for a briefing on what to expect over the next few days. After lunch we did a quick bike-fitting, then met an employee of the local coffee farm for a tour of the farm and the sorting/drying operation. After the tour, we enjoyed a tea and coffee tasting, then a brief hike through the grounds of the farm. We returned to the camp in the late afternoon, rested for a while, then had dinner, played cards briefly, and retired for the evening.
- Thursday, 27 June: A steady rain had started overnight, and persisted until around noon. After an 0700 breakfast, we loaded into the van (bikes on top) to visit a local German-built cathedral nearby, and then drove part of the bike route, waiting for the rainfall to ease up. We stopped at a local school to meet the 7th graders in attendance, and to have lunch. After lunch, we hit the muddy roads on our bikes. We rode throughout the afternoon, passing through small villages in the Kilimanjaro foothills. We stopped briefly at a large market, where pretty much everything under the sun was sold. We arrived at Mama Rosa’s place (a walled compound) in the late afternoon, cleaned up, and met as a group for a walk to a local hotel/bar with a Kilimanjaro overlook. We had a drink there, but didn’t get a chance to see the mountain (due to the clouds that had persisted since our arrival in Tanzania). We had a delicious dinner at Mama Rosa’s.
- Friday, 28 June: Another 0700 breakfast, then rode in the van to the Machame Gate of Kilimanjaro National Park (Jack and Jackson opted for the bike ride to the gate, a long steep uphill grind). We rode through local villages to a Women’s Dairy Cooperative (no tour due to a lack of processing that day), and then to a local coffee farm, where we met a very old giant tortoise and had lunch. We weren’t able to hike to the waterfall mentioned in the REI itinerary, due to an access problem. After lunch, we had brief ride to the van pickup point, then a relatively long drive back to Moshi and the Halisi Kilimanjaro. After a shower and a fruitless attempt to get the mud off my clothes and shoes, we met for dinner. The REI Kilimanjaro Climb group was sharing the accommodations with us, and we chatted briefly at dinner.
- Saturday, 29 June: After an 0730 breakfast, we packed for our trip to the airport and an 1100 flight to Serengeti National Park. At the airport, we met Aggrey Elisongko Kisonga, who (except for the two days of Rift Valley trekking) would be our guide and driver for the remainder of the trip. Aggrey proved to be very resourceful in spotting wildlife and getting us to sites where interesting things were happening. He was also a wealth of information about everything from animal identification and behavior to geology, African history, paleontology and various other subjects. We drove through the Park for the remainder of the day, stopping at a high point for picnic lunch. A list of the animals we saw during the first and subsequent couple of days is included below. We arrived at the Halisi Serengeti around 1815, a very comfortable camp with toilets and showers in each tent.
- Sunday, 30 June: We spent Sunday driving around Serengeti looking for animals (see list, below). There were huge herds of zebra, wildebeests, and water buffalo roaming the plains, as well as large groups of various types of antelopes. The highlight of the morning was a large pride of lions (about 13, including several cubs) that were lounging in a large acacia. We had a picnic lunch similar to Saturday’s, and then went in search of elephants. We found a small herd grazing among several large giraffes and a herd of zebras. We headed back to camp late in the afternoon, cleaned up, and met for dinner.
- Monday, 1 July: We arose early on Monday, in order to catch sunrise and to visit a crowded hippo pool. On the way to the pool, we saw a pride of lions (probably the same that we observed on Sunday) that had just killed a large wildebeest. The lions all had bloody mouths, and were still working on the wildebeest carcass when we stopped. The pool was jammed with hippos that were loudly cavorting. On one side ot the pond, a large group of baboons was hopping across stepping stones to migrate from their overnight camp to grazing areas on the other side of the water. We returned to camp around 0900, packed up for the trip to the Ngorongoro Crater, then big farewell to our hosts, and hit the road. We spent a few more hours, en route to Ngorongoro, searching for wildlife, and found a leopard sleeping in a tree, and an exciting lion – zebra standoff. A small female lion had crouched in a rut in the road, waiting for a herd of zebra to cross to the other side. One by one, the zebras cautiously came to the edge of the road, then galloped quickly across (many were signalling each other, regarding the presence of the lion). The lion never pounced. After lunch we headed southeast over the Serengeti highlands to the Pakulala Safari Camp on the rim of the Ngorongoro Crater. My stomach had been bothering me for a few days, and the problem got worse on Monday afternoon. I skipped dinner on Monday (and breakfast on Tuesday), and started the cipro I brought along. I met a Spanish physician at the campfire who gave me packets of an electrolyte powder that she said would help with my problem. I was feeling better by Tuesday afternoon.
- Tuesday, 2 July: Tuesday was spent roaming the crater basin, looking for wildlife, with an emphasis on finding a rhino. We left the camp early and enjoyed the beautiful ride from the crater rim to the basin. We saw lots of animals (herds of zebras and wildebeests). The highlight was a recent lion kill that involved a large male and two females. The male and one female were at the carcass with the solo female nearby. The group was surrounded by a ring of hyenas, which were surrounded by groups of jackals and vultures, all waiting for the lions to finish and leave. When that finally happened, there was rush to the scene of the kill, with hyenas scrapping over carcass remnants. We had lunch a lovely lake, then spent some more time on safari. We spotted a faraway rhino that was lumbering along near the crater wall. In the afternoon we headed out of the crater and drove for a few hours to the “REI Signature Camping” campsite near the Empaki Crater. At the campsite we met the two guides who would lead us for the next three days, Harold, a member of the Chaga people (as were most of our previous guides), and Lemra, a Maasai tribesman. We rested for a few minutes, then took a brief walk to watch the sun set over the crater. The “Signature Camp” was a little funky (uncomfortable folding cots with air mattresses that all leaked), but dinner was great.
- Wednesday, 3 July: After a rough night, we awoke to a lovely morning and a great breakfast. Today’s hike was about 13.5 miles, including a trip into and out of the crater, then a long walk along the crater rim to a Maasai trail the led to the next night’s campsite (“Signature Camping” at Acacia). We sat around the campfire (built by Lemra and his friends, using hand techniques) after dinner, and enjoyed the spectacular night sky (skies had been dark and starry since we left the Kilimanjaro area, where the clouds obscured the night sky).
- Thursday, 4 July: After a good night’s sleep (despite the funky air mattress), I awoke to another beautiful morning. The Thursday hike was shorter but more difficult than our hike on Wednesday. The trail skirted the rim of the Rift Valley, descending steeply toward Lake Natron. It was a spectacular walk, with great views of both the valley and nearby Ol Doinyo Lengai. As the trail leveled out, we met Aggrey, who transported us to our accommodations for the next two nights, Halisi Natron. Near Lake Natron the weather was very hot, with dusty wind swirling through the campsite. The landscape was starkly beautiful. We had some time in the afternoon to wash off a few days of dirt and dust, and to catch a quick nap. Before dinner, we drove to a high bluff near the camp for a sunset happy hour. After sunset, we returned to camp for dinner. As with most of our camps, the managers required that visitors be escorted after dark, so I met my escort for a walk to the dining tent, where we had fine dinner (complete with cold Kilimanjaro beer).
- Friday, 5 July: After breakfast on Friday, we met Lome, another Maasai tribesman, and Lemra’s brother. Lome led us on a hike to see the prehistoric footprints that had recently been discovered near Lake Natron, and then to the shore of the lake, where we saw thousands of Lesser Flamingos, and Kenya in the distance. After lunch we met back up with Lome for a trip to a local medical outpost, and then a hike to a nearby waterfalls. The trail to the waterfalls was spectacular, with lots of fording through rushing, waist-deep water, and rock climbing. At the falls, we took a dip in the cold water, then hiked back to the truck. Back at the camp, we were entertained by a Maasai dance group, who invited us to join them in their performance.
- Saturday, 6 July: Before breakfast on Saturday we took a quick trip to a nearby Maasai village where we had the opportunity to visit a Maasai family home, view the Maasai women milking their cows, and purchase handmade items from the villagers. After that visit, we returned to camp for breakfast and to pack up for the long drive through the Ngorongoro highlands to the last REI accommodation of the trip, the lovely Kudu Lodge. En route to the Kudu Lodge, we stopped at a large tourist shop and restaurant, where we had pizza.
- Sunday, 7 July: We had a great breakfast at the lodge, then started the trip to Arusha. On our way to Arusha (the final destination of the trip), we did a 3-mile hike to some “elephant caves” (areas where elephants had dug into the sides of hills to extract dietary minerals), and visited the FAME clinic, an impressive operation with elaborate facilities for treating local people. After the clinic visit, we had lunch at a nearby restaurant, then started the long drive to Arusha. In town, Aggrey dropped Joan, Jack, and me at the African Tulip Hotel (very comfortable accommodations), and took Jan and David to the Kilimanjaro airport. I met Jack and Joan for dinner at around 1930, then headed back to my room to pack up for the trip home on Monday.
- Monday, 8 July: Lots of noise during the night, due to a rowdy family near my room. Woke up around 6, showered, read for awhile, then headed to breakfast. After breakfast, I packed up, then checked out around 1000. Jack had scheduled an airport shuttle at 1400, so I had about 4 hours to kill, which I spent mainly at the pool, reading and listening to music. Got to Kilimanjaro airport around 1530, checked in, the rested in the business class lounge until about 1700, when the flight to Adis loaded. Another few hours in the Adis business class lounge, then an uneventful, pleasant flight to Dulles.
- Tuesday, 9 July: Arrived at IAD around 0830 and breezed through customs with my Global Entry card. Ethiopian airlines had apparently loaded the container from Kilimanjaro last, so it took about 90 minutes to get my luggage. The delay was useful, though, since it allowed Tuesday rush hour traffic to die down, and the trip around the Beltway was almost traffic-free. Got back home around 1100.
List of critters spotted (in more or less chronological order):
Silver-cheeked hornbills, Bee-eaters, Dik-diks, Impalas, Crocodiles, Hippos, Baboons, Lions, Zebras, Giraffes, Leopards, Vervet (black-faced) monkeys, Superb starlings, Storks, Gazelles, Ostriches, Secretarybirds, Buzzards, Hyenas, Hartebeests, Eagles, Warthogs, Savannah Cape Buffalo, Purple herons, Parrots, Cheetahs, Blue wildebeests, Lilac-breasted rollers, Savannah elephants, Plovers, Sacred Ibises, Yellow-billed oxpeckers, Waterbucks, White-browed coucals, Black-backed jackals, Lesser flamingos, Ruppell’s griffons, Kori bustards, Common elands, and a rhino